Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Celebrating Life



















Thank You to anyone who helped celebrate my 27th birthday; especially if you were involved with that  incredible dinner at The Modern. 


Maybe it was due to the Oscars; but the bar room was dead and I couldn't figure out why. Free corkage (up to 2 bottles) on Sundays, great food, and good service would bring me back more often if it was a bit closer. 


We sat down at a table for seven as the early birds finished their cocktails. A modern take on a classic negroni tasted like a cream-sickle as it went down a bit too easy. Or there was the Beneventano --an aperitif made with aperol, zucca amaro, strega, and soda. But what really got the night "poppin" (pun intended) was the Billecart-Salmon Reserve which was poured for us first thing (even before our water). It might have been a skip in service according to Chase; but who could be mad at that kind of mixup. 







We started off with some charcuterie and cheese while Lauren planned out our menu. Modern liverwurst, finocchiona, quail terrine, Alsatian garlic saucisson, wild boar cacciatorini, dried chorizo, Morcilla sausage, and jamon iberico all graced the plate and went beautifully with a great cheese selection of La Tur, Sainte-Maure de Touraine, St. Nectaire, Quadrello di Bufala, Brie Fermier Jouvence, Garrotxa, Challerhocker, Podda Classico, and Roquefort d' Argental. Hot walnut/cranberry bread kept us reaching back for more.





The switch to a complimentary soup course was a bit sudden; but again who could complain? White bean soup with smoked potato and crispy lentils were individually placed in front of everyone as the two tarte flambee rested in the middle. Although the one with bacon, creme fraiche, and onion would normally catch my eye, the mushroom flambee won my heart. Hen of the woods mushrooms, chive, and Comte cheese gratine made for a crowd pleaser. They also brought out Scottish salmon tartare, steak tartare, and a foie gras terrine. At this point we had been sipping a 2004 Grand Cru Riesling from Dirler while also drinking an orange wine from Sicily. The orange wine from Sicily wasn't the best; but a hell of a conversation starter. 

Next up we went into a fish course with grouper, flounder, cod, scallops, lobster, and yellowfin tuna to name a few. The Alsatian buckwheat spaetzle was a definite crowd pleaser with yellowfin tuna crudo, roasted foie gras, and a black pepper gastrique. My favorite was the slow poached egg in a jar which paired hon shimeji mushrooms and lobster with a sea urchin foam. The Atlantic cod with wild mushrooms and leek "brick" was another table favorite as it brought comfort food to a new level. And this point we were drinking the 99' Maison Leroy. 




The meat course brought an array of beautiful dishes like beer-braised pork belly, duck confit, braised tripe, a lamb duet, and a saffron tagliatelle with cider braised rabbit. Although I don't normally like tripe, the modern's was quite good. Saffron tagliatelle wavered on the lines of "too much" but ultimately showed the kitchen's skill in flavor and technique. A few nods around the table agreed that the meat course was the best; but every course proved to be excellent. And if the food wasn't enough, we had been drinking on  a 1991 Rhone, 1986 Languedoc blend, and 2000 Barolo. 





And if we left after that course, I would have been happy; but we still had more food and wine including what seemed like every dessert on their menu, amaro, grappa, a 2004 Del Forno Valpolicella, and a 1998 Vilmart Magnum to completely cap the night off. Ending with champagne wasn't our original intent; but it turned out to be the perfect ending. We drank alot of great wine, but that chardonnay heavy champagne stole the show. What an amazing dinner with some truly extraordinary people. 


Thanks again,
James



P.S.

So sad that 1964 Biondi Santi was corked!











Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Monday Funday

The General

The EMM group are behind such clubs as Tenjune, SL, SL East, Revel Nightclub, and Finale. The group also operates clubby styled restaurants like The Catch, Abe & Arthurs, and Lexington Brass. Although its wrong to stereotype, these restaurants are all about the "scene" and not so much about the food.

That seemed more than evident when I went with my friend two weeks ago. We went to EMM's groups latest restaurant venture--The General. Located next to their club Finale on Bowery, The General attracts a celebrity clientele; but is that why you go out? If it is, then you'll probably see Russell Simmons or the girl who plays Nadia in American Pie. Great people watching for sure as this huge spot was jamming on a Monday night. "This place is filled with beautiful people", said Blake and he wasn't lying.

The food wasn't BAD; but one might expect more from the Top Chef winning Hung Huynh. The "asian fusion" menu has anything from sushi to childhood favorites like General Tso's Chicken. One might be thrilled by the possibilities while others might be confused by its lack of focus.


It was a fine experience all together; but nothing that would drag me back.

The night was saved by some apple cider punch and jazz in Alphabet City.

Monday, February 18, 2013

The Marrow



Solid dinner at The Marrow with some friends last week. The meat centric menu is based on chef Harold Dieterle's Italian-German heritage. You might remember Dieterle from Top Chef or perhaps you've visited one of his West Village restaurants--Kin Shop or Perilla. Worth checking out, but probably more likely to go back to Kin Shop.






Nice Little Sunday

Started my day with breakfast at Raffles on Lexington. I don't normally venture  above 23rd St; but I met with Kayte and Trav before they needed to hop a train out of NYC. Breakfast was good, but mostly because of the company; definitely not because of the french toast. We had a great corner spot next to the window allowing us to gaze onto the streets. Service was typical of a diner. We left and headed to Grand Central and drank a few beers while we waited for their train. 







Later that day, i met up with Christa for some food and drinks at Chez Sardine. 

You might have heard of Gabe Stulman if you dine around the West Village. Stulman owns Perla, Joseph Leonards, Fedora, and Jeffrey's Grocery. He latest project is an "inauthentic izakaya" on the corner of West 10th St. Chez Sardine is tiny, only having 30 seats between the bar and tables but as Stulman often does, he turns cramped into cozy. We got here early and got two great seats at the "sushi bar" which overlooked the kitchen. After looking over the menu and sipping on some cocktails, the place was packed. Our server, John, fit the bill for Midwestern--a type that attracts to the Stulman restaurants. The staff were all laid back and super friendly.



The cocktails are all pretty well balanced and unique. Walking With A Panther mixes gin, fresh oj, pomegranate, fernet branca, and twizzler bitters while Cousin Scotty Fails His Driving Test brings together bourbon, carpano, sake honey syrup, and bitters. If you didn't want gin or whiskey you could get the Exceptional To See You--blood orange infused tequila, negroni syrup, and fresh grapefruit. Their wines by the glass were all French except for a German Pinot Noir. As far as beers, they had four on the list and only one was domestic--an IPA from Seattle. But if you wanted to more of a traditionalist you could drink sake. But the drinks are not whats important at Chez Sardine--its the food!


I was pleasantly surprised that they start you off with an amuse--marinated daikon with bonito flakes. Following the amuse, we got the chopped scallop with quail egg and trout roe alongside the spanish mackerel which was paired with crispy leeks and potatoes. We were then handed a pork and unagi hand roll, which were sent out compliments but later appeared on the check. Despite feeling cheated, I thought the roll was delicious. Barbequed eel with braised pork belly, avocado, spicy mayo all wrapped in nori. Brussel sprouts roasted with apple and brown butter came out next with charred octopus (bacon, lettuce, and tomato). Next up we got the roasted hamachi collar which was a verbal addition to the menu. Lets just say I'm glad I opted for the "one left" because it was awesome. Not quite full and interested in tasting more, we got the breakfast pancakes which might have been the best thing I ate there. Silver dollar size pancakes topped with salmon roe, diced artic char tartare, and yogurt were stacked in an artistic fashion that made the fish work in visually and flavorfully.



Our server then brought us pudding with maple and rice krispies which was the perfect fix for my dessert craving. Our server dropped the check even though we had just received our cocktails; but I get it. Overall, I had a great meal here. Might have to go back and get the foie gras and grilled cheese sandwich!





Thursday, February 7, 2013

Some January spots

Another great lunch at Mary's Fish Camp!
You know its good when Sarah Jessica Parker is sitting next to you


Late night at Wo Hop
Hungry around 4am? Try Wo Hop on Mott Street for some Chinese food and beers. Comfort chinese food like the sesame chicken or pork dumplings. Don't be surprised if the sun is up when you leave! BRING CASH!


Anthony David
Probably one of my best dining experiences in Hoboken. Had a great dinner with Dan and Sue here acouple weekends ago. Anthony David is a BYOB so we saved alot of money on booze--always a plus! AND they had good wine glasses! Don't you hate BYOB places with those shitty wine glasses?

The atmosphere was cozy and comfortable--a great date spot. The trattoria-like space was dimly lit with candles and the nose level was soft. It was a great place to catch up with friends while enjoying some good food! 

We started with a Chablis that I brought which probably wasn't the best pairing for our veal meatballs; but it was nonetheless delicious. The meatballs were made with currants, pine nuts, and aged pecorino which might have gone better with that 2007 Chianti I brought; but that would follow with our pappardelle with lamb osso buco. The pasta was delicious, but ended way to quick. 


For mains, I got the short rib special because I'm a sucker for anything that is braised for hours. Dan got the pork chop saltimbocco which was pretty good while Suzanne stuck with the branzino. All in all, all the food was quite good. We got some gelato for dessert!

Thanks for the awesome meal Dan and Sue!
We will definitely be going back!



Monday, January 28, 2013

January

Some standouts of January

Fatty Cue
Had a pretty good experience at the original Fatty Cue (in BK) when they first opened; although I remember leaving feeling like we didn't get much food for the price. I left the Fatty Cue in the West Village feeling the same way. The food itself was good, but not good enough to bring me back. We walked into a pretty empty restaurant; but it gained momentum as the night went on. The kitchen brings out stuff shotgun style, so when its done--they bring it out.

I started with a Fatty Manhattan-- a Manhattan made with some cherry cola syrup and waited for our food to arrive.  Both lamb and pork ribs were both tastey. The pork ribs were made with a fish sauce which offended some at our table; but I thought the flavor was pretty good. Pappardelle with goat was probably the most disappointing dish we had; but it wasn't bad! The duck laab was pretty delicious and would even give Kin Shop a run for its money; but portion size is what killed this restaurant. And although they have some delicious deep fried bacon, I probably won't be going back!




Frankies Spuntino 570
A Spuntino is defined as an informal meal/snack or a casual Italian eatery. It was only fitting that the place would be called Frankies Spuntino after all conceived by both Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli. They started their vision with their original outpost in Carroll Gardens on Court Street. The original, Frankies 457 was so popular that it led way to other Frankie collaborations like Prime Meats, Cafe Pedlar, and Frankies 570. 





After wine tasting at both Maialino and Terroir, we ended here on Hudson Street for some food and drink. We started off with some blanc de margeux and some crostini. All the crostini were delicious especially the ricotta/honey/provolone and the kale with harissa aoli. Cremini mushrooms with truffle oil and chickpea with guanciale also were good bites. The oxtail pappardelle was a bit disappointing as I felt like it lacked seasoning. We had moved onto a bottle of 2002 Etna Rossa by Callabretta which was great especially considering its value on their list. 




For dessert Kelly brought us out one of their signature desserts--red wine prunes and marscapone. Although prunes don't excite me, the dessert was pretty good! 


Good spot with casual, comfortable atmosphere. Big thanks to Kelly O!



MarkJoseph Steak House
Depressing to see how many restaurants/stores in the seaport are still closed from Sandy. Unfortunately some of those restaurants will not be returning. Though being closed for a few weeks after Sandy, MarkJoseph steakhouse is up and running. The restaurant is blocked by construction, so its not an easy find. Good food and friendly service. Sat at the bar and enjoyed their restaurant week menu. Their started were quite boring so I went with the good old caesar salad followed by their steak sandwich. The steak sandwich was pretty good. The meat itself was tender and succulent; but the sandwich was loaded with mozzarella cheese. They could have dialed down the cheese, but nonetheless it was still delicious. Ended with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. I think the $25 price tag was pretty good considering the quality of meat in the steak sandwich. The appetizer and dessert were just an added bonus!

I'll have to go back for a dinner!

ABC Kitchen
Great vibe and cool space; but alittle weary about "Call me maybe" playing in the background. Sat at the second bar in the back, thats is more like a dining counter considering they don't serve drinks from this bar--thought that was a bit strange too. Waited forever for our food, but it was delicious when it arrived. Good experience here; but service could be tightened up a bit. Definitely a place to check out. Go for lunch and experience one of NYC best pre-fixe lunches. 


Gramercy Tavern
Love this place! Hospitality and service at its best. Enjoyed a funky Malvasia (La Stoppa, Ageno, 2007) from Emilia-Romagna and a Pinot Blanc (Prieler, Seeberg, 2011) from Austria while enjoying some roasted oysters. GT's roasted oysters with hot sauce is a must get. 

Went for lunch as well and they spoiled us! Started off with a cauliflower puree with trout roe which had great flavor. We then moved onto roasted oysters and duck liver mousse. This was the first time I had the duck liver and it was a home-run. First off they served warm, grilled bread which was awesome. I was telling Jackie how much I enjoyed a warm bread without the crunch. Pickled veggies accompanied the liver mousse and gave the dish an acidity that balanced out the richness. 

Duck Liver Mousse @ Gramercy Tavern

Our next course was two salads sent out compliments of the kitchen. I think I ate them so fast that I forget what was in them!

For entrees we got the arctic char and the cobia. The arctic char was served with sweet potato, yellow eyed peas, and a ridiculous lobster sauce. The cobia was served with mushrooms, bok choy, and potato dumplings. Both were awesome!


Cobia @ Gramercy Tavern



Old Town Bar
Exactly like the name of the bar suggest, this is a bar thats been around awhile and has won the hearts of many. 
Lady kicking dropped fork from table to kitchen only made me fall more in love with this place. 

Pete's Tavern
Another mainstay in the area. The bartenders are cool if you're not an asshole. So don't be an asshole and you'll have a good time. 

Flatiron Lounge
Great cocktails by Jared. 














Sunday, January 6, 2013

Another meal to remember

In 2011, I dined at Marea as an end of the year celebration with Dan and Suzanne and posted that it was my best meal of the year. Since that time, I've only been there once for lunch. Marea isn't an everyday restaurant but rather a special occasion place. Located on some of the most expensive real estate in the world, this restaurant on Central Park South attracts a wealthy clientele. Marea is chef Michael White's ode to Italian seafood. The menu is a tribute to the sea with an extensive selection of crudo, oysters, caviar, seasonal fish dishes, and whole fish. Not to mention a primi section dominated with house made pastas showcasing "frutti di mare". But for those who don't like seafood, there are some great options for the carnivore.



Upon entrance you walk up to the host stand as they stand firm at attention. I was the first to arrive, so I checked my coat and headed to the bar. Getting a drink at the Marea bar proves to be difficult All the seats were taken and the bartenders don't look at you unless you are seated. I stood around for a good 10 minutes trying to make eye contact; but had no luck. The rest of my party showed up so we headed to the table.


Our dinner was set up by Liz, our wine director, as a fun and educational dinner. She is friends with the  wine director at Marea so they set up an amazing lineup of some truly awesome wines. Blake, Chase, Pete, and myself started with our cocktails as we waited for Liz. A negroni seemed like a great apertivo for a big meal. Liz arrived and we popped some bubbly. We started with a 98 Billecart-Salmon, a blend of Grand Cru vineyards in the Cote des Blancs. I was impressive with the perlage and its persistence given the age. It was a great balance of persistence and weight. This champagne was showcasing beautiful aromas of white flowers, citrus, and subtle brioche while giving off a richness that kept me going back for more.

As we sipped our champagne and looked over the menu, the staff brought us our some starters. Sea urchin with lardo/sea salt, housemade sea salt montecato (baccala), and shishito peppers were great bites to start this epic meal. We ended up doing the pre-fixe and sharing everything.

For our second course we had two Fiorano's, a 88' semillion and and 93' Malvasia. If the history of the Fioranos weren't interested enough, the wines were marvelous. I sipped the rare white wines and found myself extremely happy especially because our antipasta course had just touched down. Crudo like bigeye tuna (oyster crema/crispy sunchoke), seared pacific wahoo (wild mushroom/lobster roe), and pacific snapper (herbs/grapefruit/chevril) were all delicate and showcased White's ability to add subtle flavors without overpowering the main component. Mermaid Cove oysters and seasonal appetizers like grilled octopus and nantucket bay scallops were also part of our first course. The grilled octopus was paired with smoked potatoes, pickled red onions, radishes, chilies, and a tastey tonnato sauce. The scallops were also quite wonderful as they were pan roasted and paired with grapefruit, polenta, fennel, and salsify.





Next was our pasta course and Terrance (the sommelier) brought over a 2005 Morey Saint Denis Domaine Dujac which I was super excited for. Fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow is probably my favorite pasta dish in NYC so we got two for the table. We also got ferrantini with a duck ragu, short rib ravioli, a mushroom risotto, and baccala ravioli  (with black trumpet mushrooms, baby leeks, black truffle jus, & shaved black truffle). All the pastas were very good although my favorite remains the fusilli.




An 89' Barolo from Aldo Conterno was up next and had been decanting for a few hours at this point. Pairing this wine with 50 day dry-aged creekstone beef seemed liked a match made in heaven. The steak was served with bone marrow panzanella and braised romaine. The guinea hen was another table favorite which only speaks to White's skill in both land and sea creatures. The guinea hen was served with porcini mushrooms, sunchokes, brussel sprouts,pearl onion, and apple. More scallops appeared but this time they were served with roasted cauliflowers, endive, currants, and capers. A seafood stew known as a brodetto was another great entree that mixed together prawns, scallops, bass, and mussels in a super flavorful broth. Grilled cuttlefish also made it onto the table, but didn't leave a lasting impression. I think I enjoyed the meat dishes so much that the seafood dishes seemed an afterthought. I remember them being delicious, but I also remember looking around the table hoping the steak and guinea hen would make it back around.










By the time dessert came around, we decided we needed more wine so Terrance blind tasted us on something he thought we'd like. He threw us a curve ball with a wine from Corsica--a French island west of Italy and southeast of the French mainland. The wine was bright and fruit forward which was a nice pairing for dessert. After dessert, we indulged in some espresso and amaro. Another amazing meal at Marea. Big thanks for Liz for organizing!