Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Week in Review








The Short Version

For lunch at a cozy, West Village hotspot--check out Joseph Leonard. Joseph Leonard's is homey and rustic yet hip and urban. Service could go either way, but the food was good. For a four-star lunch, check out Eleven Madison Park which was just awarded its third Michelin star. You'll spend a pretty penny, but its worth the dough. Macao Trading Co is a cool Tribeca spot for Portuguese-Asian fare and delicious cocktails. Ellabess is a new-comer to the Nolita area; but it hasn't caught on despite its tastey food.






The Long Version

Joseph Leonard
Gabe Stulman is the mastermind behind such restaurants as Little Owl, Market Table, Fedora, Jeffrey’s Grocery, and Joseph Leonard. Stulman’s West Village eateries are always packed and getting press. Recently, I went to Joseph Leonard on Waverly Place which Stulman named around his grandfathers (Joseph and Leonard). The place is small with only seven tables and a few bar stools surround a L-shaped bar. I pulled up a seat at the end of the bar, which gave me views of the kitchen as well as the corner of Waverly and Grove. I had read some articles on Joseph Leonard, but was surprised on how small the place was—or should I say cozy.





I grabbed a seat at the bar while I waited for some friends. The bartender was drinking a beer, so I figured I could enjoy a mid-day libation as well. The guy behind the bar was dick with his New York attitude. He chatted with a couple locals and didn’t really pay me much attention. After a few minutes of looking around and taking in the space, I was handed a crinkled menu by the server who was working the floor. She asked me if I wanted something stronger than water. I thought a Sixpoint would be a nice way to start the meal. The male poured my beer almost as I was bothering him, taking away from drinking time.



As my friends arrived, we moved to the elevated level above the bar, next to the kitchen. I was worried the place was going to become claustrophobic, but our corner table provided our own little nook. The female server was exactly opposite the bartender in that she was giving off good vibes—she was cool. She told us a few of her favorites and was really knowledgeable on the menu and the individual components of each dish. Jared and Soha seemed impressed with the place. The do-it-yourself décor made the restaurant feel like an extension of a friend’s home (or apartment since we’re in NYC). Old photographs added to Joseph Leonard’s character and gave a warm, homey feel. Joseph Leonard’s felt hip in that vintage kind of feel.

The food paired well with the atmosphere—casual, comfort food. The fried chicken sandwich and the pork sandwich were instant hits. The crispy buttermilk fried chicken sandwich was topped with roasted poblanos, cheddar, and a spicy mayo. This sandwich left a nice spicy sensation, which went well with my beer. The roasted pork sandwich came with a pickled jalapeno aioli, manchego cheese, avocado, and butter lettuce. Both sandwiches were pretty awesome. I also really enjoyed the corn soup, the sirracha brussel sprouts, and the hashbrown. The lady server also brought out a goat cheese and beet salad for the “sake of trying things”. All the food was well executed and I could definitely see myself going back.























































I definitely recommend checking out Joseph Leonard. Bypass the d-bag in the flannel shirt and driver cap and grab a table. This is a good spot to kick it with friends, have a solo meal, or even take a date. Supposedly it gets packed out at night, but my daytime visit had a nice low-key crowd.
































Eleven Madison Park
With the news of Eleven Madison Park being sold from Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group, I told myself I need to go here as much as possible before my 20% discount goes away. So after a breakfast shift at Maialino, I walked over to EMP--one of few restaurants in the city with a four-star rating from the New York Times. The space is grand although you get a bit of a banker feel being in the Credit Suisse building. A revolving door leads you into the lofty space where you are met with a handful of guest waiting to tend to your every need. Huge windows bring great light into the space and overlook Madison Square Park to Meyer's money-maker, Shake Shack.


I sit at the bar and take in the space. The bar is beautiful from the wood to the bottles that line the back wall. Daniel, the bartender, seemed a bit ridged; but lightened up as the meal progressed. He started me off with an English Heat, a delicious cocktail of London Dry Gin, Tuaca, Dry Vermouth, jalapeno infused agave, and lemon juice. It was a nice cocktail to start the afternoon being that it was light and refreshing--and very well balanced. Subtle heat from the jalapeno infused agave played as a nice backdrop to this delightful adult beverage.



Daniel asked if I had any food allergies that the chef should be aware of, this seemed to be common practice in the restaurant. An amuse bouches arrived shortly; but I'm not exactly sure what it was. Two cracker-like chips paired with a lemon-grass tea of some sorts. I enjoyed the airy crackers and the tea; but was ready for the lobster I had ordered. Before my entree came out, they sent out goat cheese done in two different ways. A goat cheese and beat lollipop was one way while little goat cheese balls were the other. Definitely delicious, but my hunger pains were still at full force. Bread service was next as the self-proclaimed "bread guy" placed a house-made roll onto my place next to two choices of butter--cow's milk and goat's milk. The rolls seemed like a hybrid of a roll and croissant-- I was happy. Daniel must have seen my enjoyment of the bread, so he brought out another roll. My entree came out soon after. Lobster with mushrooms at its simplest; but more complex that I can even describe. The presentation was beautiful and the flavors were dynamite. The buttery, delicate pieces of lobster on the same fork with beautiful prepared mushrooms reminded me that life is good. Everything on the plate was finished and I even used the last piece of my bread to mop up all the sauce. Being that I was still hungry, I was ready for dessert; but the options looked awesome. Although I left hungry, I left satisfied having one of the best lobster dishes I've ever had.


I am going back for dinner soon to get the whole experience. Tasting menu and wine pairings please!






Macao Trading Co
For quite some time, I've heard buzz surrounding Macao Trading Co in Tribeca. Most of the buzz was good, giving props to the guys who brought you Employees Only while other buzz found the restaurant "silly" and confusing. You've arrived at 311 Church Street and a red lantern lets you know you're there. The bar area appears first, so grabbing a drink from one of the "bar chefs" only seems right; but you might have to wait as the "mixologists" talk booze with their guests. Funny enough, no jiggers (measurements for making cocktails) were being used-- I guess they really pride themselves on free-pouring. The drinks are good and seemed to achieve balance; I sampled a few--Once Daily, Drunken Dragon's Milk, and the Bashful Maiden.




The dining room was pretty empty when we first arrived, but it definitely picked up throughout our meal. This joint gives the vibe as a late night destination where opium den meets port-side warehouse. The vibe is cool at this Portuguese meets China spot. Service is ok, but I wasn't expecting much. The only thing that really bothered me was the runners carrying multiple plates to your table, but only dropping off one. It kind of gave me hopes of getting more food and its disappointing especially when something looks good. Do they do that on purpose? Maybe I'll order a dish that I didn't order in the first place? Or maybe its mere convenience for the running team.




Anyway, lets talk about the food; which was all pretty good. The Jellyfish and Chinese Long Beans was an interesting option though not my favorite. The Pork Ribs might have been my favorite or was it the Mushroom and Truffle Croquettes--the jury is still out. Ants Climbing the Tree was a nice spicy dish of glass noodles, minced pork, and chilies but it didn't compare to the ribs or the croquettes. Towards the end of the meal, the waitress seemed like she wanted to turn the table so I felt like I was being pushed out. I didn't want any dessert, but I could have went for another drink--but she dropped the check; so obviously it was time to go. Overall, Macao Trading Co was a good time. Good vibes were complemented with good food and drinks; so I can definitely see myself going back; but maybe as more of a late night spot.









Ellabess
I never been to only guest in a restaurant untill last Sunday when I went to Ellabess in the Nolitan Hotel. Ellabess opened in July under the control of the folks who brought you dell'anima, L' Artusi, and Anfora. I was a bit confused at first, were they closed? They couldn't have been closed, they restaurant called to confirm my reservation. A few steps down is the restaurant, sunken below street level; but where is everyone? One of the waitors looked at me with surprise asking if he could help me while I looked backed equally confused. I walked up to the bar because I figured I'd get a drink at the very least. I wasn't sure I even wanted to eat after seeing such a dead restaurant. I started thinking why the restaurant didn't have a crowd. Granted the Nolitan Hotel isn't on the best part of Kenmare; but its by no means a bad location.. Still a bit taken-back, I chatted up the bartender trying to figure out why the restaurant wasn't crowded like its counterparts. He blamed it on the summer opening, but I don't know if I buy that either. The restaurant gave off a cold, unwelcoming vibe that looked out of a catalog; but maybe thats because it was completely empty except for the three staff members that roamed the floor.





My chat with the bartender changed directions as I asked him what kind of sweet vermouth he uses in making a negroni. He fumbled around and eventually picked up Carpano Antica, my choice sweet vermouth. Unsure, if I should just take the safe route and get a beer; I scanned the beer selection for a few seconds. I decided to put the bartender's skills to the test and asked for a negroni. A negroni was listed on the menu along with some other classics like the Hemingway daiquiri, old fashioned, and rusty nail. I thought it was cool to see some classics on the menu, but I was confused with choices such as the Harvey Wallbanger and White Russian. The bartender began to make my drink as he fumbled around the bar looking for his bar tools and the proper ingredients. I was happy to see him use a jigger, so atleast the proportions were right. Ellabess had good ice, which always impresses me and played a role in the drinks success.



My friend Jocelyn entered and she looked just as surprised as I did. We sat at the bar for a bit then grabbed a table. Since we had every table as an option, we picked a corner table that gave views of Kenmare and Elizabeth. It was kind of funny to see people look at the Ellabess menu outside; but none of the passer-bys stopped in. We remained the only diners there for a good half hour or so till another party of two entered--then a party of four a few minutes later. I was thinking maybe this was a late-night spot; but noone else came while we were there.

I don't know why this restaurant hasn't caught on because the food is delicious. My old sous chef at Tabla, Ty Kotz works with Executive Chef Troy Unruh so there is no lack of talent in the kitchen. Chef Troy worked at Del Posta before taking second in command at Dell'anima. At first glance, the seasonal American menu seemed a bit boring; but the dishes made me rethink. Black truffle gnocci was sent out first with the kitchens compliments after Jocelyn told our server she never had gnocci. The gnocci was delicious; but the delicata squash stole the show. The squash came with maitake mushrooms, bacon, red onion, basil, and a duck egg. I also enjoyed the striped bass tartare which was prepared with celery root, black truffle, speck and chives. The addition of speck really amped up the dish with a nice smokey flavor.

For our main course; got the roasted monkfish with pork belly, black trumpet mushrooms, and parsley root. This dish hit the spot as I often crave a duo of meat and fish. The monkfish was beautifully prepared and packed great flavor while the pork belly was topped with some sort of chocolate sauce. The sauce was quite good especially when combined with the parsley root puree that surrounded the plate. Jocelyn got three side orders instead of an entree. She got the spinach, brussel sprouts, and squash--all solid side dishes. Ty came out to say hello and brought us one of his favorite dishes--the quail. I'm not too sure how it was prepared; but it was my favorite thing of the night. The bird was cooked with a some love and a little bit of genius. The sunchoke puree was also a nice touch.

We finished with the waffle soufle that was accompanied by maple ice cream. Our server brought us some chocolates with our check.


Overall, I had a great experience at Ellabess. The staff was friendly and optimistic although the restaurant was dead. Our server seemed pretty knowledgeable on the menu and had a good attitude. The food was real good, so I can say with certainty that Ellabess food isn't the reason why they are dead. I guess we could just make assumptions to why Ellabess isn't packed; but I do hope they turn it around. I'm sure its a totally different experience on a Saturday night; but the people behind Ellabess have a track record of success so we'll just have to stay tuned to see if it endures the curse of the hotel restaurant.


















Monday, October 3, 2011

Week Review


Week in Review
Negronis at Momofuku Ssam Bar hit the spot after a hard nights work. The classic italian cocktail was made right with all equal proportions of sweet vermouth, campari, and gin while being stirred and strained over a large ice cube. You'd be surprised, but some classic cocktails including the negroni, martini, and manhattan are ruined by bartenders who don't know or just don't care. Its good to have a good cocktail even if it cost a little more. Another night after work I ended up at a bar on the corner of 14th and 7th. I thought the name was Tommy's, but I could be wrong. This bar was a shot/beer kind of place which was exactly what we were looking for. Friendly service, clean beer lines, and darts kept us there a little later than I planned; but thats ok.




Sushi Samba blew up when Sex and the City was big; but the chain-like sushi joint has passed its prime. Granted I had lunch there around 4:00; but the place was a ghost town. I couldn't even find my server to fill up my water or bring me my check. The sushi combo ($26) was alright; but alright doesn't make loyal guests. At the very least, they didn't even describe the fish in the combo labeled on the menu as chef's choice. I never had high expectations of this Latin-Japanese fusion spot, but I wanted to like it due to its proximity to work. But unfortunately Sushi Samba did not give me a reason to come back.




I would go back to Osterini Morini, Michael White's Soho hotspot. Michael White has gained a great reputation over the last couple years after great success at Marea, Corvivio, Alto, and Ai Fiori. I believe Michael White is now only involved in Osteria Morini, Marea, and Ai Fiori as well as two NJ restaurants. But we're glad he hasn't spread himself too thin because that's a curse of over-expansion that many chefs/restauranteurs endure. Our dinner at Osteria Morini proved that Michael White has trained his staff well even if he's not running the kitchen.






I was happy to see the bartenders at Osteria Morini were not only friendly, but knowledgeable on their craft. Our server continued the trend of knowledge and hospitality as we had a corner table overlooking the whole restaurant. People flocked in and the space became bustling. We started with a bottle of Lambrusca which only felt right as the osteria featured food and drink from Emilia-Romagna. Our first course seemed to hit the table in no time; but then again we probably got caught up in conversation. The ricotta gnocci was tossed in a pomodoro sauce with some speck and basil. The pillow-like gnocci was full of flavor and had a nice smokey-porky flavor from the speck.The garganelli was house-made penne pasta tossed with truffle butter, cream, prosciutto, and peas. This pasta was very tastey and provided a good sauce to dunk your bread in afterwords. Three crostinis also graced the table--two artichoke and one duck liver. Both were tastey although Dan thought the duck had a cat food texture. We were also sent out meatballs compliments of the kitchen. The meatballs were really good especially when placed on the toasted bread that accompanied them. After our pastas and sparkling wine, we moved on to a bottle of Sangiovese that Dan picked out. The wine might not have been Sue's favorite, but I thought it was good and paired well with my meat dish. My entree was a mixed grill of lamb, skirt steak, pork, and fennel sausage. This was a great way to try the different meats which Osteria Morini grills or split roasts. The combination of meat was simply seasoned and delicious. Dan got the branzino while Sue got the short rib which was the special of the evening. Both those dishes were solid dishes that reaffirms the talent in the kitchen. For dessert, we got the Gianduja Budino which is a chocolate-hazelnut custard, caffe crema, and cherry lambrusco sorbetto. This dessert was awesome. I usually pass on dessert because I'm never really intrigued enough; but this budino did the trick. We kept with Italian tradition and had a flight of amaro with dessert. We had nonino, luxardo albano, and fernet branca which is a good spectrum of the italian digestif. Our server gave us a pretty good descriptions of the amari while pouring them table-side. Three hours laters, it was time for an espresso and the check.













We then went across the street to La Esquina on the corner of Kenmare and Cleveland. La Esquina might just look like a taqueria, but a whole different world exists once you get past the girl with the clipboard. If she deems you OK to enter, you will enter a door labeled "Employees Only", head down the stairs, and zig-zag through the kitchen to a dimly lit space that looks like a mexican speakeasy. The place looks old and decayed, but I'm pretty sure thats a look that was designed rather than acquired through age. I don't know if La Esquina is as hip as it use to be; but its definitely still a scene. After our meal at Osteria Morini, we just wanted a drink so we sat in a cove-like indent and sipped our variations on the margarita. I didn't love the drinks, especially for the price; but the scene was cool and the company was cooler so all was good. Next time I will drink tequila on the rocks instead of an over-sweet margarita. I definitely want to try the food, i hear its bomb.





After drinks at La Esquina, we decided part ways. Dan and Sue went back to their Hoboken pad while I headed uptown to 23rd Street for a farewell party. One of my managers left, so he had a going-away party at The Globe between Lexington and 3rd. I've been here a few times and it proved to be a good time. There wasn't any dancing; but there was tons of drinking. Just when I thought the night was ended, a couple of us went over to KumgangSan, a 24-hour restaurant in K-town. We ordered way to much food for 4am; but everything was pretty good. K-Town got a bunch of late night spots if your ever craving Korean food at early-morning hours.



Thursday, September 22, 2011

The Trifecta: Food, Booze, and Good Company

A hidden happy hour gem is easy to miss if you're not paying attention. Just below street level, an intimate wine bar known as the 8th Street Cellar provides for a cozy and comfortable atmosphere. From 4-7 the wine cellar offers $18 bottles of red and white wine. There is also a bottle of Prosecco for $18 if you're celebrating or just care for some bubbles. If you don't want to do a bottle, you could get the glass of the day for $5. Of course, I got a bottle--a bottle of Tempernillo.





The Mac' and Cheese was pretty ridiculous and even made colette say that she'd come back for it. The shrimp and chorizo dish that we split was good, but nothing in comparison to the mac and cheese. Overall, the 8th Street wine cellar was a great place whether you're looking to catch up with an old friend or take a date. 8th Street Cellar sets you up with a variation on my trifecta: cheap vino and reasonable priced plates--all you have to bring is the good company.



After a great experience at 8th Street Cellar, we walked over to Tertulia on 6th Ave. Tertulia could be defined as a regular, informal social gathering--perfect! Chef Seamus Mullen runs the kitchen showcasing the wonderful flavors of Spain. Unfortunately, we were too full to eat; but agreed that we had to come back to Tertulia. We did get some of their "tap" wine that is poured from a barrel into a rocks glass. The bartender later explained that Tertulia puts all wine below $50 in rocks glasses because its a more casual feel. I don't usually like drinking wine out of a rocks glass, but here it felt OK. The menu looked awesome and the plates being served around us looked even better. The staff was very friendly and the prices seemed reasonable. I guess we have a spot for our next outing!


Wednesday, September 21, 2011

A Very Italian Sunday

Sunday is a day for relaxing and watching football; but last Sunday was a little different. I started my day on Mulberry Street at The Festival of San Gennaro in Little Italy. The festival is a week or so long, but the bulk of festival happens on the weekend. The streets are mobbed and its hard to walk; but its an experience. Vendors sell traditional Italian fare while some new restaurants offered more gourmet street food. Among those newcomers were The Breslin, Rubirosa, Stellina, Mulberry Project, Byggyz, L'Artusi, Frankie Spuntino's, and Parm. Although the more traditional food like sausage and peppers were good, the newcomers shined with their updated street fare including "frito pie", ribs, and short rib sliders. An italian festival wouldn't be complete without some zeppolis, but its OK because I walked home to burn off all the calories I ate. (ha, not even close)







Later in the evening, I manage to eat more Italian food as I brought my sister out to Maialino. Here, we had the chef's cook for us while our server (shout out to Corey G) paired some wines with every course. Our first course was a crostini smeared with ricotta topped with a black mission fig dressed in chestnut honey paired with the Donnas rose--a fruit forward rose from the Valle d' Aosta. Friutta Romana, a mixture of lamb sweetbreads, brains, and artichokes came next along with an octopus and potato salad. Corey brought out the Viamelia, a dry-hopped lager to pair with this course. Our next course was a pasta course consisting of the pici ala norcia, agnolotti, and garganeli--a dangerously delicious trio of house-made pastas. Lugum, a mixture of 70% Merlot and 30% Cab Sauvignon was paired with our pastas at my surprise. I thought the blend would be too heavy, but I thought they complemented the pastas quite well. The spigola, whole seabass, was next. This dish is awesome not only because of its flavor, but because they make a presentation out of it. Right before you are ready to enjoy your fish course, a staff member brings out the fish which is carried on a silver platter. Chef likes to present the fish so the guest can learn a little bit about the cooking process. The fish is salted baked after being stuffed with lemons and herbs allowing the fish to capture ridiculous flavor. The fish is served with sauteed mushrooms and a simple salad of bitter greens dressed in lemon and olive oil. This course was paired with the Cornalin, another wine from the Valle d' Aosta. This wine is a great choice for guest who want to drink red wine with their fish. The last savory course was lamb two ways. Chef prepared the Scottadito dish (lamb chops) and added lamb ribs. The lamb was paired with the Rosso di Montalcino, one of my favorite wines on the list.

For dessert we had the chocolate tort, fig tart, panna cotta, and an assortment of sorbets. We had three different dessert wines to pass around with the dessert selection. Aleatico is a medium body, red dessert wine that is full of flavor. This is a good substitute for those looking for a port. The dried cherry and tobacco flavors are divine with the chocolate tort. Vin Santo from Tuscany plays its part in dessert giving us a white dessert wine bursting with flavors of almond, vanilla, and honey. The third dessert wine was probably the most interesting although it wasn't the table favorite. The Barolo Chinato seemed like a hybrid of an amaro meets dessert wines. When drinking the Barolo Chinato you get a lot of herbaciousness found in digestifs such as amaro. I thought it was a solid wine although very different.


Overall, it was a fantastic day of eating and drinking with family and friends. I might have gained 10 lbs, but it was all worth it. Keep L.I.V.I.N.



Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Late Night

Last night after work I headed over to the Flatiron Lounge on W 19th Street to see my buddy Jared, the bartender. He recently took a couple shifts at Flatiron after being on the opening bar team at Lani Kai. Good news for me because getting to the Flatiron Lounge after work is way easier than treking to Soho.

The Flatiron Lounge is a cool, cocktail bar where you know your drinks will be made properly. Granted, the drinks could be pricey; but you are getting a well-crafted cocktail and not some ridiculous mixture of ingredients that doesn't come close to achieving balance. At Flatiron Lounge, the bartenders come up with a daily flight of three cocktails; which is awesome if your a bit of a cocktail nerd or feel adventurous Last night, Jared's flight contained the Singapore Sling, Mai Tai, and Jamaican Peach. I think the Jamaican Peach was the only one he actually invented; but nonetheless they were all delicious. The crazy part about the Mai Tai is that its almost always made wrong. I feel like bartenders usually throw a bunch of rums and fruit juices together and call it a Mai Tai when in reality its 2 oz aged rum, 1/2 oz orange curacao, 1/2 orgeat, and 3/4 fresh lime juice. The garnish for this drink is a sprig of fresh mint, not a cherry and umbrella! For a proper Mai Tai go to Lani Kai or Flatiron because these guys are on top of their game.

Anyway, got a bit off track in my Mai Tai rant. Flatiron Lounge is an awesome spot if you're looking for good cocktails in a chill atmosphere. After the bar closed; we headed to a bar on 7th Ave that I forget the name of. It was a dive bar, but the Guinness tasted good so I was all for it. We then headed to Coppelia restaurant on West 14th Street and 7th. Coppelia is a 24-hour Cuban luncheonette/diner serving Neuvo-Latino comfort food in Chelsea. I've been here once before and I think its awesome. Everything I've had here is awesome from the guac and calamari starters to the shrimp or short rib entrees. They also got some bangin' mac and cheese which is mixed with pork belly and pork skins. I'd definitely check it out if your looking for some good food whether its 3 in the afternoon or night.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Goin' with the Flow




Anything could happen in New York City is a great way to sum up last night. We started the night sipping bourbon on the roof of the Dream Hotel on West 55th Street. I don't normally travel to midtown, but the rooftop here is incredible. The views down Broadway to Times Square make it worth the trip. Fashion week brought an eclectic crowd of designers and models while the normal crowd of ballers shuffled in. Our waitress was lovely and took good care of us all night. We left the roof to grab some sushi a few blocks away at Blue Ribbon. They couldn't accommodate our large party, so we just hung out in the lobby of the Columbus Hotel and had them bring us food. They brought out a bunch of appetizers including tempura rock shrimp, yellowtail sashimi, miso baked clams, miso crusted sea bass and some other treats. Saki isn't my drink of choice, but I had that "when in Rome mentality" going. They then brought us out a couple Blue Ribbon Platters of assorted sushi, sashima, and maki rolls. Somewhere in between, there might have been a food fight or two where we almost got kicked out. After our delicious, drunken meal we headed out for more fun not appropriate for this blog.

Fashion Night Out

This year I experienced Fashion Night Out for the first time. I'm not interested in Gucci's new fall accessories, but I am interested in free booze and food. During Fashion Night Out, fashion houses throughout the city host parties with three of my favorite things--food, booze, and babes. A few of us guys attended Helmut Lang's party, which was pretty awesome. They had the guys from Death and Co pouring cocktails while Luke's Lobster served up their signature lobster rolls. Macallan sponsored the event, so I found myself sipping on their 10 year; which is way better than being at work. They also had a band rocking out which added to the scene. So next year, head down to Soho and join the party. Just try to make plans beforehand because you probably won't have cell phone service for a few hours. Thanks for the invite Sue!